The first thing that comes to mind when one thinks of Nepal is mountains. Big, rugged mountain ranges. You know - that little range called the Himalayas. I am holding out for a glimpse, but a forecast that calls for set in rain the next 5 days may dampen that hope. Oh well, mountains, smountains...
We have been in Nepal for a week. Landing at the Kathmandu International Airport, it is clear that one is in another world. And that's saying something coming from India. The Kathmandu Airport is more like a large abandoned gymnasium than a space for processing international visitors. There are empty, back rooms that are littered with garbage. It is not made clear the process for obtaining the "visa on arrival" so we muddled our way through, following the crowds. It's a realitively simple process, unlike the frustrating bureacracy of India - except that they do not want Nepalese rupees to pay for it! I had none of the foreign currency they accepted (except Indian Rupees, which they didn't want either), so I had to proceed to the ATM, withdrawn Nepalese Rupees then exchange them for US dollars in order to buy our visas. Huh?? Our first glimpse into the appalling state of government affairs here.
But we had arrived and I must admit I was glad of the change of pace from being in India. It was here that I was meeting my best friend from childhood. I was very excited and knew that after the past three weeks travels and challenges, that I would release of a well of tears just at the sight of her. I was right. Mel and I met when we were 11 years old and had both recently moved to Australia from New Zealand. We were inseperable for the years through early high school and have remained close since then, even when decades have seperated our visits. Mel and her beautiful family bravely moved to Nepal two years ago, to remove themselves from the demands and stresses of a busy, unfulfilling life in Auckland, NZ. Their assimilation into Nepalese life has not been easy, but through kindness, determination, sheer grit and a healthy sense if humour, they have done it. Renovating a run down but beautiful French style house in the back lanes of Pokhara, just a few steps from the lake and at the foot of a step hill, they have greated an enchanting oasis for their three children and for those that come to visit. It has incredible rustic charm. They have created a wonderful semi outdoor kitchen, plus other projects, but faced many challenges working with Nepalese contractors. The work ethic here is spasmodic and workmanship is questionable. But they do the best they can.
But what they have created is incredible. I love it here. Aside from all the talk of leeches, rats, snakes (Mel had a highly poisonous green viper in her kitchen a while back), cockroaches, beetles and a host of other creatures, I could easily just settle in here. The Nepalese community that surrounds them is warm, curious, fun loving and kind. There are a gaggle of smiling children running about amongst the buffalo and chickens and someone always wants to stop to talk. "Namaste! ... Where you from?" is the first question. "Where you stay?" and "How long here?" is followed closely by "What you do?". Lovely, relaxed people. And if the intensity of tbe Indian people could be likened to a hurricane, then the Nepalis soft and gentle demeanor is like a gentle breeze.
There is a real laid back feeling about Nepal. But this is above the undercurrent of instability, poverty and corruption here. We have heard many stories about everything from child trafficking (the government head of the child trafficking department in Nepal is a child trafficker himself) to ancient caste systems still keeping people so poor. About children being "brought" from families in the mountains, with the promise of a better life here in Pokhara or Kathmandu. Orphanages spring up everywhere. Travellers come and want to help of course, so they give - substantial amounts in Nepalese standards. This becomes too tempting for the owner (trafficker) and so more children are bought in. Perhaps it starts out with good intentions, but it ends with greed dominating the heart. Other stories are told about how destructive the strong family tie can be. There are no second chances here amongst families, do something wrong and you are gone. And about not looking for justice here if you find yourself on the other side of the law. Many, many stories. I hear that Nepal is a "5th world" country. That it is one of the poorest on the globe. But it is deeply rich in so many ways, or it could be if its resources were properly managed. If it had a real government that had an interest in the country and its people as a whole. If officials were not so concerned with lining their own pockets. But these are the realities of Nepal that perhaps many tourists do not see. It is looked upon as an ideallic Himalayan kingdom, and of course it is. Foreigners keep coming back here, in spite of its challenges. Or they stay, enjoying a simpler, less stressful life. If you can find ways to support yourself. Mels husband manages security in Afganistan and is gone three months at a time, then is home for three weeks. So you either need to leave the country to earn an income or start a business here to capitalise on the throngs of travellers who come every year. But I overhear all the challenges in doing this in this country. On starting a business. The Nepalese people are difficult to train and finding good, responsible staff is apparently nearly impossible. But as people come from all over the world and there is potential dripping from every corner, it is very tempting. For the Nepalis and for foreigners. I passed a great house for rent on our walk up into the hills the other day. Mel thinks it would go for about $50 a month. Perfect for a small yoga retreat or a guesthouse. Its overlooks the valley, backed by the Himalayas. Mmmmmm....
They boys are loving their time here. They have missed having other kids around. Jordan and Mels middle child, the always smiling Mayr, have really hit it off, sharing their love of being nine! We have been welcomed so beautifully into this family, and I am truly grateful. My friend Mel has flourished here, her kindness, warmth and generosity bring many friends to her door. She reaches out to the Nepali people and involves herself in the betterment of their lives. They have a good life here, but it has it's limitations for education. They have plans to move next year to Thailand in order for their eldest son to go to school. He has been home schooled for the past two years but it is now time for him to be involved with other kids and the activities of a teenager. From my own brief experience trying to school the boys on the road, I do not wish this upon any mother! In our case however, I feel that my boys are learning so much about the world in these few months, by really being in it, that it is difficult to sit them down to adding fractions amongst it all.
So we will enjoy the rest of our time here, meeting new people, catching up on old times, learning more about Nepali culture ... and hopefully we will catch a Himalayan mountain peak or two under clear skies...